On Sunday I went exploring the city, still incredulous at how clean it was, with its distinct lack of litter and extremely well-maintained flower beds. I decided to visit the place which had started my fascination with this country, the Hotel Des Mille Collines. Rwanda is very mountainous, hence its nickname ‘Le Pays des Mille Collines’, or ‘The Land of a Thousand Hills’. Hence the name of this hotel, certainly plush but otherwise unremarkable until you learn its story. This was the building in which the manager, Paul Rusesabagina, sheltered hundreds of people during the genocide – better known to the world as ‘Hotel Rwanda’.
I had lunch by the pool, trying to imagine what had occurred here eighteen years earlier but finding it all difficult to comprehend.